Before I begin, a wish to all for good fortune in this Lunar New
Year, annum 4706, a Year of the Rat in the cyclical Chinese
zodiac.
It is a custom each year to look into the character and traits
of the creature that governs one's birth year, and to ask if they
might mirror one's own propensities.
The rat, for example, is notable for his guile and clever talk
and for being an occasional toady - yet, as the year goes on, he
has the capacity to become an upstanding fellow. So happiness and
growth to all rats, most of whom will begin celebrating their year,
as will we, dining festively.
Eating and knowing what we eat is my concern this new year as we
ponder the stubborn inability of Americans to understand Chinese
food.
In recent years the pages of this and other publications, as
well as the airwaves jammed with gastronomic programs, have been
filled with discussions purporting to be about Chinese cookery.
Too often these discussions have been rife with error: Chinese
dishes are misidentified and misunderstood. Food is routinely
declared Chinese simply because it is marinated in soy sauce.
Cookbooks tout misguided concepts such as the "flavor
principle", encouraging home chefs to "recreate" Chinese dishes
simply by studding them with bottled and packaged products.
After reading and rereading such nonsense, I have resolved this
new year to stop stewing and to begin questioning how and why
Chinese food is so horribly misunderstood.
Let us start at the beginning. Virtually all of the so-called
Chinese cooking in the United States today can best be described as
undistinguished, served in restaurants generally indistinguishable
one from another.
The how of this is easy: The Chinese who sailed to the "Golden
Mountain" of America to lay the ties and tracks of the
transcontinental railroad were all men. In that womanless society
these workers ate a food of survival.
Unfamiliar ingredients were cooked in rudimentary Chinese
fashion. This coarsened cookery is what evolved into the
Chinese-American genre.
It is substandard food, prepared first to feed a worker and then
to please an American palate that dotes upon overcooked vegetables
and sauces thickened with cornstarch and sugar.
The why is more complex. Chinese-American food is
unquestioningly accepted as Chinese by an American public that
consumes it by the ton. And, while the public bears some
responsibility for its love of these sodium-assisted flavors, much
of the blame must be placed on those of us who are responsible for
interpreting Chinese cuisine.
I include those who collate its recipes, those who critique it,
those who rate its restaurants. They have failed to do their
jobs.
Over the years news organizations with reputations for accuracy
and thoroughness have told me the following about Chinese cuisine:
The "spring roll is similar to a typical egg roll". "Chinese black
tea is difficult to find" in the US. "Yum cha" is Australian for
"dim sum". Italian prosciutto is virtually identical to, and may be
substituted for, the hard, salted hams of western China.
All of these are egregiously incorrect. What is one to make of
an authoritative Chinese cookbook that suggests "chopped California
dates" as a substitute for red-bean paste, or that opines that
string beans will stand in nicely for bamboo shoots, sweet potatoes
for taro, almonds for ginkgo nuts, a bouillon cube for soy sauce
and salt for fermented black beans?
We are told that beggar's chicken, traditionally cooked encased
in clay or a hard dough, can be made authentically in an
oven-roasting bag. It cannot.
In the past year I have read that there are five, six or eight
great regional traditions of Chinese cooking. In fact there are
four, always and ever four.
What is most troubling about all this is that there is a
sufficiently broad record to consult, to learn from and then to
transmit.
Books like K.C. Chang's Food in Chinese Culture: Anthopological
and Historical Perspectives (Yale University Press, 1977),
published 30 years ago, and its younger companion, E.N. Anderson's
The Food of China are fine, precise and exhaustive sources.
Yet they are consistently ignored. What seems more pertinent, of
more interest, are courses in "Chinese takeout" like the one
offered by a New York cooking school.
Let us be clear: Authentic Chinese cookery is not so elusive. It
can be found in the US - the chefs capable of recreating China's
greatest dishes are here. What these cooks need, I suggest, is to
be challenged.
I urge that those charged with informing us about true Chinese
food make resolutions to educate themselves so that in time they
may issue, with confidence, such challenges. And then the rest of
us can follow.
The author is a columnist for Gourmet magazine The New York
Times Syndicate
(China Daily by Fred Ferretti February 22,
2008)
